I wired the conduit and wire around the top of the left side frame and over to the starter relay. If you go under the airbox make sure that you don't interfere with the carburator linkage movement. I went to the inside a short distance from the rear of the false tank assembly and then curved outside around the airbox.

Some long black flex ties are pretty handy right about here. You shouldn't have much trouble finding a routing path along the upper frame rail.

I took a different path here than Ailog did I think. Ailog wired into the red wire before it enters the starter relay. If you do that then you are protected by the 30amp fuse that is already in the relay. There is no problem with doing it that way.

The only reason I took a different path is because I think that red wire and connector is already overloaded and it failed on my bike once already. When this connector fails your bike is dead. It will have no power what-so-ever, this one connector feeds all that is electrical on the LC. If it goes, your pulling covers and rewiring. Trust me, I know all about that one.

I chose to go directly to the hot lug of the relay and utilize a seperate fuse to avoid a connection I have already had trouble with.

***If you connect to the hot lug of the starter relay you MUST put an inline 30 amp fuse between the new wire and the lug because you are bypassing the factory 30 amp fuse.

Making the connection to the starter relay is pretty simple. There is a cover over the relay that you will need to remove. It is either green or clear depending on your year model. In case you are wondering at this point, see that red wire? That feeds everything electrical on your bike.


Here you will need an inline fuse assembly. I prefer the blade assemblies and they are readily available from most any auto parts store for a couple of bucks. Get one that has a 30amp fuse. The wires on the fuse holder should preferably be 12awg.

Here is what we are going to do on the upper end:


 

I used a butt connector to solder the new wire onto the fuse holder wire. This makes a pretty solid connection. You can solder wire to wire though and it will work just as well I suppose. Once you have that end soldered tape it up with electricians tape.


Take the other side of the wire and solder or crimp (solder preferably) a round electrical connection designed for 12awg wire (yellow). Once you have done that done you want to connect to the battery lead of the starter relay. This is the big lug at the front with the large red wire. Make sure you don't connect it to the other one or you will have a run-away starter.

A good idea here is to leave yourself enough wire on the inline fuse so that you can reach it but simply removing the front frame cover. That way if you do blow that fuse you can get to it short of pulling the tank covers.

Finishing Up & Seeing Results