You will
need some 12awg wire, about 5' should be sufficient. I used a
high grade heat/oil/fuel resistant wire. I also bought a black
plastic flexible conduit to run the wire in. You will need a
soldering gun, solder, some connectors and some patience,
although not exactly in that order.
First thing to do is remove the battery cover and
disconnect the negative ground cable. This will prevent arcing
about a really hot wire. Here is the owners manual stuff about
removing the battery you can use for a
reference. You don't need to remove the battery, just take off
the top cover and disconnect the negative post.
Next remove the left rear engine cover (image
right/click to enlarge). There are 4 8mm bolts holding this on. A good idea
is to place a towel, or some other soft object on the ground
to prevent chrome scuffs in case you drop it or need to lay it
down to unplug the rectifier that is mounted inside.
Unplug the rectifier that is mounted inside the cover and
place the cover in a safe non-chrome abusing location.
Since I used a cover for the wire I went ahead and removed the
left side tank cover, seat and left side false tank so I could
find a good routing method for the cover and wire. I went down
the frame on the left side just behind the ignition and behind
the plate with the heat absorbant cover. It was tight, took
some patience but it will fit.
I
then ran the wire and conduit to the plug to the rear of the
case opening which is the same path followed by the factory
wiring. Once I got all the connections made I flex tied the
new conduit/wire to the factory wiring and pulled out the
slack from the top of the frame so as to not leave any excess
wire in the case.
Once I was happy with the wiring down the frame and into the
case I then made the connection to the RR plug. The factory
wiring was enclosed in a plastic sleeve so I carefully cut
away the sleeve to reveal the wires. That red one (on the
right)is the one we are after.
Onward
to the next page