You will need some 12awg wire, about 5' should be sufficient. I used a high grade heat/oil/fuel resistant wire. I also bought a black plastic flexible conduit to run the wire in. You will need a soldering gun, solder, some connectors and some patience, although not exactly in that order.

First thing to do is remove the battery cover and disconnect the negative ground cable. This will prevent arcing about a really hot wire. Here is the owners manual stuff about removing the battery you can use for a reference. You don't need to remove the battery, just take off the top cover and disconnect the negative post.

Next remove the left rear engine cover (image right/click to enlarge). There are 4 8mm bolts holding this on. A good idea is to place a towel, or some other soft object on the ground to prevent chrome scuffs in case you drop it or need to lay it down to unplug the rectifier that is mounted inside.

Unplug the rectifier that is mounted inside the cover and place the cover in a safe non-chrome abusing location.

Since I used a cover for the wire I went ahead and removed the left side tank cover, seat and left side false tank so I could find a good routing method for the cover and wire. I went down the frame on the left side just behind the ignition and behind the plate with the heat absorbant cover. It was tight, took some patience but it will fit.


I then ran the wire and conduit to the plug to the rear of the case opening which is the same path followed by the factory wiring. Once I got all the connections made I flex tied the new conduit/wire to the factory wiring and pulled out the slack from the top of the frame so as to not leave any excess wire in the case.




Once I was happy with the wiring down the frame and into the case I then made the connection to the RR plug. The factory wiring was enclosed in a plastic sleeve so I carefully cut away the sleeve to reveal the wires. That red one (on the right)is the one we are after.

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