Remounting
the wheel is pretty much the opposite procedure of mounting
it. Again you will probably need to angle the wheel slightly
to get it under the fender. Once you get it under the fender
the easiest way I found to get the splines lined up was to sit
on the floor on the final drive side and again grab the wheel
at about the 4 and 8 positions and leverage my arms off my
knees. It is kind of hard to explain but you can sort of see
that in figure 8.
Raise
the tire up and using the hub you can sort of tell which way
the wheel needs to go to get aligned with the splines. You may
have to turn the wheel slightly one direction or the other but
it is really pretty easy. I actually did it twice, the second
time was so that I could get my wife to take a picture so that
I could use it on this page.
Once the wheel is aligned
on the splines it should stay there even without the axle in
place. Mine did anyway, your results may vary. Next insert the
axle and begin working it gently through the axle hole until
you just see it start to come out the other side of the wheel.
At this point put the spacer (figure 9) on and push the axle
through enough to hold it in place.
Next
replace the brake caliper assembly (figure 10) and then push
the axle the rest of the way through. Put the washer on the
axle and then put the nut on the axle (make sure you get it on
correctly, the outside of the nut has a little thin metal
band) and tighten it down slightly. Replace the forward brake
caliper assembly bolt and any bolts that you had to take off
due to your pipes or other muffler assemblies.
Lower
the bike back to the ground and make it secure from rolling,
ie have it in gear, and either have someone hold the brakes or
if your all alone take a bungee cord or other suitable device
and clamp down the front brake lever. This is done to keep the
bike from rolling away when you tighten down the axle bolt.
Tighten the axle bolt and brake caliper bolts to factory
specifications (79.5 for the rear axle, 36 for the brake
caliper).
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