If you hooked the battery back up to check the low beam wiring then go ahead and unhook it again. No point in taking a chance. First splice or power-tap the high beam headlight wire which is the yellow wire going to the headlight plug. You do not want to cut this wire, only splice or power-tap it. Solder a female spade connector to the tap wire and connect it to the switch side of the relay. Solder a female spade connector to a short piece of wire and connect this to the ground connection of the relay. You can either splice into the same ground used previously or you can power-tap this into a suitable ground. This ground is only for the relay trip so it is a low load requirement. For the main power feed to the relay I ran a seperate fused wire from the battery to supply power. This is because the H3's pull enough power that I was not comfortable wiring into any power source that was already supplied in the headlight. You will want to fuse this with an appropriate size fuse for the driving lamps. Lastly make your connections to your driving lights by soldering a spade connector to the hot (positive) wire leading to the driving lights. This connection will go to the lamps side of the relay. Once you have appropriately taped and secured all connections connect the battery back and check to see if your driving lights now come on with your high beams. If all went well your lightbar lights will now come on when the low beams are on. When you switch to high beam the lightbar lights should automagically turn off and the aux driving lights come on and vice-versa.
When I determine how reliable these switches are I will include a 'how that was done' section also. |
